Bottle Cap Resin Sofa Table

A casual mirror-topped sofa table was broken last year; the table was not expensive, but very convenient because it slid neatly under the sofa.  I decided to replace the top so we could continue to use it.  I considered tiling it, but decided against this because of the potential tile and grout weight, and the fact this table is supported by only one end.

I'd seen bottle cap tables before, and liked the look and the resulting smooth surface.  So I took this opportunity to try out a new craft.

The first step was to remove the remaining portions of the broken mirror.  Doing this left a round, rigid sort of particle board that was glued to the circular metal frame.  So I removed the board, and spray painted the metal frame bronze.

Collecting the caps was easy; I had many contributors.  Some were quite bent, so I chose the ones with the least damage and most interesting designs.  I tried several different configurations; initially thought of making a sort of mosaic pattern, but in the end decided on a random look.

I then needed to make several more decisions:

1. How to attach the caps to the table board
2. How and when to attach the table board back onto the metal frame
3. How to keep the resin contained on the table

1.  Attaching the caps

I first painted the backer board black; it was slightly damaged from removing the mirror, plus I wanted a dark background for the colorful caps.  I then needed to attach the caps to the board so they would not float to the surface after pouring the resin.  After some research, I decided to use plain white glue that dries clear.  Another potential problem is getting air trapped under the caps, which will produce bubbles after the resin is poured.   I did not realize how problematic this could be until it was too late.  More on this later.

2.  Attaching the table board to the frame

Pouring resin requires 'walls' to contain the resin; the height of the caps plus the board back in the metal frame was higher than the edges of the frame.  I could have mounted the board underneath the frame to create a deeper surface, but decided against this because the board would have been 100% supported by whatever adhesive I used, as opposed to resting in the channel if placed on top (its original location).  So I glued the board back in its original position, and then glued the caps to the board.

3.  Containing the resin

Since the metal table rim was not a high enough 'wall', I built a wall using 2 layers of 1.5" painter's tape.

The next phase consisted of mixing and pouring the resin.  I chose Parks Super Glaze Ultra Gloss Epoxy, and meticulously followed the measure, mix, and pour directions on the box.  To cover all the caps completely, I ended up pouring 4 different layers, and used a hair dryer to get the bubbles to rise and dissipate.

When finished and completely set, I removed the painter's tape 'wall'.  It came off easily, but left rather sharp edges of resin which I sanded smooth.

Lessons learned:

• Resin is very messy!  And extremely sticky!  (Don't brush your hair off your face during the process.)
• Try to completely seal the caps onto the surface with glue, because the smallest gap will release air bubbles.  Plus, resin will seep under the caps, thus requiring more resin.
• Think twice about using white glue; mine did not dry completely clear (or I was impatient and did not wait long enough - see bottom photo, and the gray outline around some caps).
• Do not use the hair dryer for longer than the recommended time; I did so on one of the layers, and the resin did not set smoothly.  I was able to cover this with a subsequent layer.

  

Rescued Mission-style Desk

This desk was rescued from my neighbor's trash; the size was perfect for my office, and all it needed was some reinforcement to the legs and a paint job.  It also had some obvious wear and nicks, so I decided to go for the Pottery Barn distressed look and take advantage of the existing condition.

I did not want a strong black, so I used Behr paint in Warm Onyx, which is a softer look.  Sandpaper and 2 coats of Minwax Paste Finishing Wax gave it a distressed look.  This desk will receive a lot of use, and I was a little concerned that the finishing wax would not hold up to the use; it has been close to a year now, however, and it is holding up quite well!

Bathroom Mirror

The bathroom mirror was a plain, builder grade standard installation.  I like large mirrors in bathrooms because of light they reflect, but wanted something a little more interesting.  I decided to frame the existing mirror with simple, slightly rustic 1"x 4" frame with metal angle brackets.

I bought pine 1" x 4" boards, coated them with 2 coats of Minwax WoodFinish stain and sealer in Provincial, spray-painted some silver angles a hammered gray, and then assembled the frame.  I also replace the plastic mirror holders at the top with some flatter metal ones found at Lowes so the frame would sit closer against the mirror.

I planned to attach the mirror with some of the Command Velcro strips so it would be easily removable in the future.  I ended up just balancing the frame on the existing laminate backsplash for now, since I plan to eventually replace the countertop.  Also, the frame fit perfectly behind the existing light fixture, overlapping about 1/2" and holding the frame stable.

Before:

After:

Bathroom Tile Wainscoting

This bathroom was formerly covered floor to ceiling with wallpaper, both above and below the chair rail.  Below shows the wall after the lower wallpaper was removed, and the in process state of adding the trim molding:

I chose a small 1/2" molding because the room is small; it was very light and easy to work with, and I attached it to the walls with construction adhesive instead of nails because of its more delicate size.

This bathroom also has a fiberglass enclosed shower, which I like because it is very easy to clean.  But to jazz it up a bit, I decided to add a glass and marble tile both above the shower and the chair rail.

The upper walls were painted Hazy Trail by Behr.